• Manufacturer: Millett
  • Model: Buck Gold TRS-1 4-16x50mm
  • Model Number: BK81001
  • Magnification Range: 4.0-16.0
  • Objective: 50mm
  • Tube Diameter: 30mm
  • Eye Relief: 3.5"/89mm
  • Click Value: .125 MOA
  • FOV: 29' - 8' @ 100 yards
  • Adjustment Range: 65 MOA
  • Reticle: Custom Mil-Dot
  • Focal Plane: 2nd
  • Weight: 29.4oz/834g
  • Overall Length: 16.4"/417mm
  • Buy Here:

Millett Sights has been making external sights for many years, and a while back they also joined the scope making business. One of their newer offerings is a dedicated tactical scope that is based on their Buck Gold series of scopes. The Tactical Rifle Scope 1 (TRS-1) is a 4-16x50mm scope with side focus and some other typical tactical scope features. Millett has also recently announced they have a new model that is a fixed 10x. There had been several questions posted about the scope and its quality on the forums and via direct emails, so we figured it wouldn’t hurt to evaluate one. We ordered a TRS-1 and prepared for the review.


One of the first things you will notice is that the scopes are fairly hard to find in stock. They have been hot sellers and Millett has recently ramped up production to help with the supply of these scopes. The actual model of the scope is the Buck Gold Side Focus Tactical Rifle Scope… but more commonly known as the TRS-1. It arrived in a nice box with a cloth scope bag (or sock?), small Allen wrench (for the turrets), lens cloth, lens covers, some minor paperwork, and a 3″ sun shade. Part of the paperwork was a small mil reference sheet that was a bit confusing to understand. But once you figure it out, it shows the number of inches 1, 1.5, 2.0 … 5.0 mils will cover at anywhere from 100 – 500 yards in 50 yard increments.

The scope tube is a single piece aluminum tube of 30mm diameter. It has a nice even matte anodized finish, though I noticed the sunshade matte color was slightly different than the main scope body. No big deal. The size of the scope is more of the larger design that has become popular in recent years for tactical scopes, and it does feel robust and durable. The power ring is larger than the eyepiece and has a nice knurled area in which to grab and adjust. The power ring adjustment is smooth all the way around, but there is an actual audible and tactile ‘click’ right at the 10x mark. It sounds and feels intentional, but I don’t know why since the mildot reticule on this scope is accurate at 16x. It would be a very nice feature if that was where the mil-dots were accurate at, but I really cannot explain why it is there on this scope.


The turrets are of a good size and shape, similar to Leupold M1 knobs and are 1/8 MOA per click. The 1/8 is certainly accurate and allows for very precise adjustments, but on a tactical scope where many scope changes are used, I prefer 1/4 MOA clicks to help prevent having to dial twice as many clicks for adjustments. But that being said, the 1/8th clicks are precise and these knobs are nice. There is 9 MOA per revolution and while the spec sheet says there are 65 MOA of adjustment, this one actually had 109 MOA of vertical adjustments. I have heard 100 MOA from millett directly, and that is what I would plan on having if you were purchasing one of these scopes. The windage knob is marked starting at 1 going each direction, which is a feature I really like on tactical scopes. But, on this particular scope with the 1/8 MOA clicks and only 9 MOA per revolution, at 4.5 MOA you now are overlapping on the numbers. So if you were at 6 MOA right, the knob would read 3. It is not a horrible deal, but some confusion can happen, and it is the same argument for all scopes with knobs marked like this, but on this scope, it happens at only 5 MOA. The other thing I did not like about the knobs is that there is no visual reference for how many times the elevation knob has rotated around zero. Most other makers with external knobs provide horizontal lines on the elevation knob that can be used as a reference for how many times the knob has rotated past zero.

The other interesting feature with the knobs on this scope is the lock rings on both the elevation and windage knobs. The lock ring is knurled also and is located at the bottom of each knob. A slight turn clockwise locks each knob so they will not move. They work as designed and are easy to operate, and there are times where an inadvertent knob turning does happen in the field. I’m not sure how important the feature really is, but it does work and is something other makers do not offer.

Side focus knobs are a popular trend of tactical scopes, as they should be, allowing for precise adjusting of the objective within easy reach while behind the scope. The TRS-1 has a large diameter knob that is marked from 10yds to infinity. The focus works as it should, but there was a problem with how stiff the knob is to adjust. I do not know if it was just this particular scope, or if all of them are like this, but the focus knob is very stiff and hard to adjust. Once applying enough force to twist it, it is smooth, but still requires significant force to keep moving it. I thought it may loosen up, but it has not yet. It is not a two finger twist, but requires ham fisting it. It works and focuses as it should, it is just very stiff to twist.


The reticule is a unique mildot design that is intuitive. Originally we thought there are half mil tick marks to aid in accurate mil readings, but it turns out according to later documentation that each mark, regardless of hash or dot, is a full MIL. We found this to be odd and at times confusing as the mind naturally assumes the different shapes mean different things. Of course, with use this will be become more natural, but it is still a bit odd. The dots are very small compared to normal mildot reticules. The USMC mildot is .25 mils, and the US Army mil-dot is .22 (or .2 if you round like the US Army teaches) but these dots are even smaller. The mil sheet provided says they are 1/4 MOA dots, which translates to about .07 mils, or 1/3 the size of a US Army mildot. They don’t look quite that small, but I may be mistaken, or perhaps the documentation is incorrect, but they are small. Small dots are fine, just different, and they do not obscure much of the target. The reticule is nicely etched onto the glass for durability. The reticule is on the second focal plane which means it stays the same size no matter what magnification you are on, so for the mildots to be accurate, you have to be on the designated magnification, which for this scope is 16x. The reticule is lighted green with 10 different power settings. I did notice if it was fairly dark like at late dusk and the reticule setting was on the higher settings (above about 8) there was some excess light entering the tube from the lighting component from both the 7 o’clock and 2 o’clock position in the scope. You only really see it if there is not much light out, but it does indicate perhaps the quality of the eye piece housing containing the lighted reticule could use some improvement.


One of the most difficult parts of evaluating scopes is trying to measure optical quality. There is no easy test that I have found that a person can use to measure or compare optical quality. This is especially true with modern scopes where optical quality on even the low end scopes is superior to what was considered good optics about 30 years ago. That being said, the optical quality on this scope, at least with me looking through it, appears to be pretty good. It was clearly better than a low end Barska, but not quite as nice as a Leupold VX2. I would state that the optics are probably about as good as a SWFA SS, or in the Burris Fullfield 2 range, an okay middle grade optic.

With the scope mounted on our .308 tactical test mule rifle, the scope performed well shooting through the box accurately and ending where we started. The stiff focus knob continued to be a bit of a hassle while shooting at different ranges, but the target knobs were easy to use, though we did not find ourselves using the locks too often (if at all?). Though we didn’t spend much time doing simulated operations, so perhaps those locks would be handier in those cases. Having to dial in all of those 1/8 MOA clicks was also a bit tedious when going between all the different ranges, and you had to be careful to keep track of where you were on the knobs. But in terms of field performance, the scope did just fine and is certainly a usable scope for tactical operations.

The scope is another decent option in the lower-middle grade scopes, but I would like to see a bit better quality control in terms of the very stiff focus knob and the leaking light from the lit reticule. The locking knobs are an interesting distinguishing feature that might be important to some, and there are plenty of elevation adjustments for long range use. For a lower end rifle or someone just getting into long range shooting, this scope is at least worth considering.

Sniper Central – 2007




Here is the instructions http://www.millettsights.com/downloads/TRS_Manual_WEB.pdf If you scroll down to page 5 and 6 you can see you should set it to 10 power for mil dot measuring. not 16. And each click is .1 mil. . And that each mark be it dot or dash is a full mil. You said ( There are half mil tick marks to aid in accurate mil readings, and there are dots at the whole mil marks) This is not right . The dash is a full mil and so is the dot . look at the picture on page 6 at the top it clearly shows you that dot to dash is a full mil. Please let me know If I am wrong.

Mel Ewing

Again, this was a very early version where it was 16x, it was changed after that to be 10x (like the knobs went from 1/8 to 1/4 clicks). The documentation does indicate that each hash, as well as dot is 1 full MIL, which I can correct in the review… though I see no logical reason why they would do that, it just confuses the shooter.


The turret dial on the scope is in inches ,1 click equals .75 inches. so each click is the same as 0.2 mils. because 0.1 mil = 0.36 inches ,so 0.36×2 = .72 inches . You should have ordered the .1mil click scope BK81008 . Keeping the turret in mil adjustments makes thing a lot easier to use . You should never mix a mil-dot system with a moa dial or in inches. This dial is setup for a 308 Win with a 168 gr to make thing simple for users of the bullet .

Mel Ewing

Actually, that is not correct, this was an original TRS-1 which had the 1/8″ clicks (look at the picture of the knobs), and even the new model uses .25″ clicks (not .2 mils). Even then, mixing MOA knobs with MIL reticle is perfectly acceptable and is what is on the M24’s and many other duty sniper rifles in use today. It is just a matter of training, not a matter of non-functionality. I use MIL/MIL, MIL/MOA, MOA/MOA scopes all the time and each is as accurate and usable as the other, just a matter of learning what you have and loving it.

Mel Ewing

We no longer have the scope, but over time the components began to wear out and a bit more slop was evident. The lower quality of the Chinese made scopes really becomes apparent over time.

Mark Reynolds

I have a number of these scopes and have yet to have any wear apparent with them. And if they do wear to the point where it is an issue, it is life time warranty. These are made in Taiwan. Not China.

Mel Ewing

If yours are still working well, then by all means keep using them! We have not had the same luck and all of our records indicate the Millett scopes are made in China. Perhaps that has changed as this sample was from a number of years ago. (2007)

Jim Singleton

Have you ever mailed something back to Taiwan for repairs ? I just have a problem with Lifetime warranties from the China area.

Mel Ewing

Typically all the warranty issues are handled by a company here in the USA so that you do not have to deal with the out of country factory.


I recently purchased s 6-25×56 lrs and have had nothing but problems. See I bought the higher magnification for my fiancé and long distance competition. I’d hoped that the better scope would help her recent diagnosis of 20/200 visual impairment but the glass was fuzzy, and the scope would loose tracking. We’ve sent it back but now in the middle of the season are told it will take a month to look at the scope. I’ve written to the CEO of vista outdoors, bushnell and sent an attached letter with the scope. I can tell you all the waisted ammo and now inconvenience has cost far more than the scope is worth. I will see if anyone at bushnell or vista outdoors will take care of us and let you know our outcome.

Mel Ewing

Thanks for sharing your experience. Hopefully it is resolved to your satisfaction.

Phsantom 30

The reason for the lock on the turrets is to hold the base settings or zero while you adjust the dials by using the Allen wrench to loosen the turret and free the dials to spin, once aligned then the turrets are reseated with the wrench and the locks can be released to allow the new dials locations to work as turrets should. I have an LRS-1 on a 300WM for years now without issue and my TRS arrives tomorrow.

Justin Cok

I have had Millett TRS-1 for a while now and I have to say that it definitely took some time to get used to . Full rotation of turret being 5.5 mils was initially the weirdest, for every previous scope I had it was 5 mils per full rotation.
What kept me with this scope at that time was optical clarity and overall quality of glass, now that I`m used to some of the unique aspect of TRS-1 I have to say I really like it. Not planning to change it anytime soon.


The audible click is so the shooter knows when the scope is zoomed to 10x. This is the power at which the reticle is optimized…not 16x as many other manufacturers do. Other manufacturers will optimize their second focal plane scopes on the highest level….not Millet. They did theirs at 10x.


I purchased one of these on 4/25/2017 at a local gun shop. I am a one of those that likes Millett products; usually their rings. Just a little history here…About ten years ago I was going to buy a Millett scope for a 22lr rifle; but my friend bought it before I could and that was the last time I saw a Millett scope on the shelf. I wasn’t an internet purchaser back then, so that wasn’t an option. Well, fast forward to 2017 and the gun shop has one that looks like it’s been hiding for a while and had a sticker price of only $69.99!! Usually they around $300 on websites. It looked a little big for a new Savage Mark II-F rifle that I was looking to scope; but I just couldn’t refuse that price. I looked it over very closely to make sure that nothing was wrong with it for that low of a price. No dents, dings, or anything…So I mounted it with Vortex rings and it actually looks and feels great on the rifle. Don’t let it’s bigger size deter you from buying one. The balance of the rifle is still very comfortable. I would recommend this scope even if I had paid $300. Love this scope! And just in case you are wondering, yes I do have other gun and scope combinations to compare this to. I also have a tricked out Ruger 10/22 (Green Mountain heavy barrel, 2.5 pound trigger group, Hogue stock, and polymer buffer pin) with a Bushnell Elite scope; a CZ 455 with a Vortex Diamondback 4-12x; a Marlin XT22 with a cheapy 3-9x Tasco; and a Savage Mark II FVSR with Vortex Diamondback 4-12x.

Jeff Graff

The comment made in the review about not sure why there is a “click” at the 10X mark is there for a reminder that the scope is set at 1 mil at the 10x position. It is set for use at this position. If not used in this position you will need to use the variable size chart at the end of the instruction guide


Yes, that would be the case if the reticle were configured to be the proper size at 10x, but for this version we had, it was setup to be correct at 16x which is why it made no sense. It so happens that with later versions of this scope they changed it so that the reticle was accurate at 10x, which then made the click make sense. But this early version was a head scratcher.

Charles Woodhead

I own one DMS -1 and two TRS-1s. The TRS-1s are on my varmint AR-15s, 20 ” bull barrel and 24″bull barrel uppers with bi-pods. Using my reloaded 75gr hollow point match rounds, I’m capable of hitting golfballs (ground squirrel’s head) at 200 yds and tennis balls (ground hog’s head) at 300 yds consistently (that would equate to under 5″ at 500 yds – Kill on a coyote at a quarter mile). If you use the tables at the end of the manual in conjunction with a Mil-dot Master (available from Amazon for $30), you can accurately use this scope reticle at any of the magnifications from 4 – 16. If you can add and subtract, you can figure your drop in spaces and clicks. You don’t need to go round and round on the turrets because there is always a mil dot close to the mark so the comment about needing slashes for successive rotations is moot. Just use the turret for minor corrections. Why buy a variable scope if you’re only going to use 10X? For more ease of operation, use the https://www.hornady.com/team-hornady/ballistic-calculators/#!/ (They also have an app). Plug in your ammunition characteristics/shooting conditions and get your drop at different distances. Then print out a cheatsheet and tape it to your gun stock. Viola (or as they say in France, Whala), you can accurately shoot out to your rifle and ammo capabilities. As far as longevity, I’ve been using these scopes since 2014 and 2015 with no problems. As far as clarity and visibility in low light applications, I’m in my 70s with cataracts and I can see accurately right up until near dark, beyond if there’s moonlight. Now, if you want to spend $3000, $4000, $5000 for a scope, be my guest, but unless you’re shooting gnats at 1000 yds as a professional shooter or shooting at the Taliban at over a mile, you don’t need it. If you’re hunting deer, elk, moose, bears, big cats, you only have to hit a 9″ pie plate for a kill shot (I’ve done this with a longbow). This scope will do it with ease.


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