The 338 Lapua is a very good cartridge for long range sniping and its use in combat sniper rifles continues to grow. Because of the growing adoption among military snipers there has been an increase in popularity among enthusiast as well as competitive shooters in the civilian ranks as well. The downside to the 338 Lapua is that it is based on the .416 Rigby case which has a larger case head diameter (.590″) than the standard magnum cases (.532″) and unfortunately, many of the commercial actions and bolts are not large enough to easily handle the larger case head diameter. Because of this, popular actions like the Remington 700 require special work to be done to them in order to fit the .338 Lapua, and anytime you mention special work, it means more money and also lower production numbers. As such, there are not a lot of lower priced precision 338 Lapua rifles on the market. That is where the Savage 110 BA comes in. Savage actions are built on a modular design, so instead of them having to make major modifications to a bolt design, they simply had to make a new bolt head and they were pretty much there. Of course some other details such as magazine design needed to be performed as well. The end result is that they were able to release a modern precision sniper rifle chambered in the .338 Lapua for a reasonable price. Now, reasonable does not mean cheap as the street price on these rifles is around $2000 at 2012 prices. This is still not cheap, but it is cheaper than most others out there and to justify the price, Savage has included various options and features to make it even more attractive. The big question is, will it perform? That is where we come in.


The 110BA had some initial teething problems when they were first released but those were sorted out and now the rifles are readily available on the commercial market. They arrive in a fairly typical Savage box, though larger than a normal, and it includes the rifle, bolt, instruction manual and some other registration and warranty cards. Everything is nicely packaged and wrapped in plastic with some light oil for corrosion protection. The packaging is well made and durable and is probably better than most mass produced factory rifles. As you unpack the rifle you begin to notice the rifle is large, like most all 338 Lapua rifles, and everything seems to be on a bit larger scale. The other thing you notice is that there are a lot of rails on the rifle, as we’ll discuss later.


For the past decade or so Savage has been making their mark in the industry by not being shy about innovation and being willing to try the latest fad and they tend to bring them to market quickly. On the 110BA the big thing that is different than most rifles out there is their stock. The aluminum chassis system is a flat sided aluminum modular stock that is finished in a matte black color. There are weight saving flutes on the sides and there is a detachable box magazine setup with a thick trigger guard. At the front of the trigger guard there is a magazine release lever that protrudes down below the guard. The modular stock is designed to incorporate an AR-15 style pistol grip and the grip it comes with is comfortable and has a PSG-1 style platform at the bottom to provide hand support. The platform is bulky, but it does its job well.

The MagPul adjustable stocks have been very popular on the AR rifles and the 110BA incorporates the same MagPul PRS stock for the buttstock. For those that are not familiar with the PRS, it has two adjustment wheels, one for raising the comb and the other for adjusting the length of pull. The stocks are well made from a hard kydex style plastic and with the easy adjustments it will fit just about any shooter. The plastic itself does not provide a great cheekweld and the shooter can sometimes find themselves slipping down and continuously trying to get into a non-slipping position, especially if sweating or with face paint on. Perhaps some moleskin or strap on cheekpiece could help.

If you noticed that there are flush cups on the stock, those are not installed from the factory and were installed by the owner after purchasing the rifle. There is an Anschutz style accessory rail on the bottom of the forearm which can be used to attach various picatinny style rails to be used for attaching a bipod. This rifle had a picatinny style rail that was used to attach the excellent GG&G bipod. There is a standard sling stud attachment as well that can be used to attach a Harris style bipod. The accessory rail runs the full length of the forearm allowing for a wide adjustment range to be used however needed.


The action is a standard Savage 110 long action with the rounded rear receiver. The controls will be familiar for those that have experience with Savage rifles. There is a bolt release switch/lever on the right hand side of the action and to remove the bolt you press it down while holding the trigger to the rear. Reverse the process to put the bolt back into the action. The safety is also in the standard location which is at the back of the tang and is wide with serrations to help with operation. It is a three position safety, forward for fire, back one notch for safe but allowing the operation of the bolt, and the furthest back position locks the bolt and the trigger.

The trigger is the Savage Accu-Trigger which has been around for a while now. The trigger was a revolutionary design for a rifle trigger and allowed Savage to have a light trigger pull yet still provide liability protection as there is no way for the rifle to fire without the shooters finger on the trigger. This is accomplished by having a ‘blade’ that protrudes through the trigger shoe and this blade must be depressed in order for the trigger to be activated. The concept is similar to the Glock Pistol mechanism for those that may be more familiar with that setup. The trigger on this rifle broke cleanly at a measured 1.25 lbs. with no takeup, besides the blade, and some over travel.


Picture of the accutrigger on a Savage 10FCP

The bolt handle is a large tactical style bolt handle that is machined with serrated grooves on it and it is a bit longer than the standard Savage bolt knob. One of the nice things about Savage bolts is that their modular design allows for easy bolt knob switching and there are several manufacturers out there that do after market bolt knobs for Savage rifles. The rest of the bolt is the same as any other Savage 110 bolt, including the bolt head and extractor design. There really does not look like there was much to do for Savage to be able to chamber their rifles in 338 Lapua.

The Magazine is a single stack magazine that holds 5 rounds of 338 Lapua ammunition. The magazine fits snuggly into the floorplate and it locks into place with a click. The fit can be tight and requires some practice to figure out the best way to easily get it inserted and seated. It seems to work best by tilting the magazine forward a bit to get the front of the magazine in first and then slide it on up until it snaps firmly in place. To release the magazine the operator presses the magazine release lever, at the front of the trigger guard, forward until the magazine pops loose. This lever is also firm and is difficult to operate when keeping the firing hand on the pistol grip, though it can be done with some effort. The easiest way, though probably not the best, is to remove your hand from the pistol grip.


As mentioned before, the action is a standard Savage 110 long action using the standard recoil lug and barrel locking nut as all other Savage 10 and 110 rifles. As is common with most mass produced rifles, the bolt fits into the action with a bit of slop but this helps when build up and grime get into the action from field use. The bolt itself slides fairly smoothly along the rails and chambers with minimal effort. The barrel is a 26″ long heavy barrel with 1:9″ RH twist and made from carbon steel. The barrel does have 6 flutes to help save some weight and there is a large muzzlebrake on the end with three chambers and closed at the bottom to help prevent dust and dirt from being stirred up upon firing. The barrel and action have a matte black bluing applied that is fairly non-reflective.

There is a large one piece rail along the top that extends ahead of the scope mounting area that is used for mounting night vision optics. The rail also extends down on the left and right hand sides of the rifle to provide accessory mounting areas as well. This provides a lot of mounting options but does also add to the weight and bulk of the rifle and it would be nice to have the option of purchasing the rifle without the side rails or forward rails if desired. The rail does also have a 20 MOA cant built into it to help maximize the elevation adjustments of the chosen scope. The extended rail is also properly designed to not touch the barrel which is free floated for accuracy.

Overall the rifle is large at over 50″ long and also fairly heavy at over 15 lbs. for just the rifle alone. When you add optics, bipod, and loaded magazine you are pushing 20 lbs. total for the system. But this is not completely out of the norm for a large .338 Lapua rifle. The 110BA looks the part and has all the capability to mount and utilize the latest accessories, though whether the rifle “looks” good is in the eye of the beholder. Some here liked the looks, others did not. But that is not what we are here for, we need to know how the rifle performs and what its capabilities are.


For our testing we mounted our trusty Leupold VX-III 6.5-20x50mm Euro spec (30mm tube) scope that we use for a lot of rifle reviews here. We utilized medium-high Nightforce 30mm rings, the scope needed to get up a little higher than normal to get the bell of the scope high enough to not touch the extended rail up front. This was required even with the slight depression in the rail for the scope. For our 100 yard accuracy tests we utilized the HSM 250gr Sierra Match King, 300gr Sierra Match King, and Swiss P 247gr Styx action ammunition. For round one of testing the temps were 35 degrees with a light rain and winds of 3-7 mph.

We have had troubles in the past using the Savage accu-triggers with gloves on and decided that all shooting would be conducted without gloves to try and help prevent the same types of problems. The rifle fed from the magazine very well and was smooth throughout the tests. It is a simple design but seems to work effectively. The steel magazines do not rattle around much when seated, even when empty. We also tried single feeding with an empty magazine seated in the rifle to test the ability to emergency load a single round and the rifle had no problems. The AR style grip is comfortable and provides a good upright position for your firing hand. Recoil on the rifle is mild for a .338 Lapua, this is due to a very effective muzzle brake and a heavy rifle. Unfortunately, that mild recoil is offset by the Magpul buttstock.

The shape and material of the buttstock is such that it is not easy to get a good solid, non-slipping cheek weld and to do so required me to cant my head to the side to help hold things in place and keep my eye aligned. Unfortunately this placed my cheek bone right on the hard cheek piece and after about 10 rounds; my cheek began to feel it. Even with the fairly mild recoil of the rifle, it took about 3 days for the pain from the cheek bone bruise to go away after the first shooting session. The pain was enough that I changed my cheek weld to not cant so far onto the cheekpiece, which meant using neck muscles to hold my head in place instead of resting it completely on the stock. This is not preferred or desired. I would prefer to see a more traditional stock design be used.


The accu-trigger continued to cause problems as well. We continued to have several failures to fire as the blade was not fully depressed during the trigger squeeze and this happened even without gloves. The reason is because some shooters with shorter fingers, myself included, do not curl the finger all the way around to make a full “J” shaped hook, when this happens the blade in the accu-trigger may not always fully depress and it does what it then is supposed to do and blocks the firing pin from striking. You hear a click, but do not get the associated boom. Perhaps training can correct the problem, but for those that are like me, the current trigger is not suitable for operational duty and a replacement would be in store. When the trigger is working, it is nice and aides with getting the full accuracy out of the rifle.

We also ran into two extraction failures while using the HSM 300gr ammunition. In both cases the extractor blade was not catching the rim of the case in order to extract it from the chamber. The extractor appears to be normal and it worked for all other loads and only happened those two times, but obviously, if that happens the rifle becomes a big 20 lb club instead of a long range precision rifle. A cleaning rod down the bore was all that was needed to remove the brass. We measured the case head diameter of one of the cases that failed to extract and discovered that it was .005″ smaller than the rest of the brass we measured. The Savage extractor is not an overly large one and it appears that this slight size difference was enough to keep it from being able to grab the spent brass. Other rifles such as the Sako TRG-42 have a more aggressive extractor that seems to be able to handle the variances better. The brass probably should be more consistent, but this does need to be watched when used in conjunction with this rifle.

The 100 yard accuracy results are listed below:

Ammo Avg. Group Best Group
HSM 250gr SMK 1.106″ (1.06 MOA) 0.980″ (.94 MOA)
HSM 300gr SMK 1.417″ (1.35 MOA) 1.082″ (1.03 MOA)
Swiss P 247gr Styx Action 1.940″ (1.85 MOA) 1.919″ (1.83 MOA)

As you can see from the results, the accuracy of the 110BA was not what we were hoping. While the rifle shot better than MOA on occasion with the HSM 250gr, it was just barely. The groups were very consistent; it just was not as tight as we had hoped. The Sako TRG-42 that we have here shot the same lot of 250gr HSM ammo well under .5 MOA and the 300gr at about .6 MOA so we could not attribute it to the ammunition. Typically Savage rifles shoot very well for factory rifles so we took the rifle out on a 2nd day for accuracy tests just to be sure, but the results were the same. Obviously there is probably a load out there that will shoot better in this rifle, especially if you hand load. But we could not get any better accuracy out of the rifle with these three loads.

Because the 250gr was shooting the best we decided to use it for the long range shooting impressions and at 300 and 400 yards the groups measured right at that 1 MOA again. For shooting steel plates at longer ranges it seemed to maintain the same MOA of performance. Now do not get me wrong, 1 MOA is still good and is what we require as a minimum from a rifle/ammo combination when considering a rifle for long range tactical use. But we were hoping for better performance, and as we indicated, perhaps with different ammo it will come into its own.


The rifle is a decent effort by Savage, but perhaps they have tried too hard to put all the right pieces together rather than looking at the rifle as a whole. Savage also offers their 110FCP with HS precision stock in 338 Lapua that uses the same muzzlebrake. We have not tried one of those out yet, but right now that is the way I would be leaning if I were purchasing a Savage 338 Lapua rifle, and it is less money as well. The 110BA performed okay, and the aluminum stock and other parts should hold up well. But with the uncomfortable MagPul stock, average performance, and an accu-trigger that I would need to replaced, I would be reluctant to recommend the 110BA.

If you own one of these rifles in 338 Lapua and have had different experiences with accuracy and comfort, let us know and we can be sure to update the information.

Sniper Central – 2012



David Nicklin

I have been playing around with mine for a little over a year now and have found that you do not use Hornady brass or at least I couldn’t get it to work as well as lapua or nosler brass. after going thru several different powder/bullet combinations I have settled on 91 gr, of retumbo with a 285 hornady 285 stx bullet it groups at one moa at 100 and does not seem to get much worse at extended ranges I had no trouble out to 1200 meters in hitting head and figure steel targets. The powders i tried were 50 BMG (to slow for barrel length) IMR 7828 and as mentioned retumbo I found there was not much difference between the 7828 and the retumbo as far as downrange performance. I have to install a different set of mounts and rings to get more tilt as I run out of elevation on the scope before 1500 meters. I am going to try a SPHUR mount which will give me another 20 moa it should be enough they are expensive but cheaper and gunsmithing cost to change the rifle. So far I am happy with this rifle and feel it is good dollar value ammo is expensive even to load but a lot cheaper than .50 BMG at least here in Canada.


I have a savage 110BA. I reload hog don 1000 right at 100 grains for 285 grain bullet. They are definitely not your sakes or Barrett meads but they also are not 5-8000 dollars either

jesse Arthur

I have a 110 FCP. It seems to like the 250gr SMK at 2920 fps avg. Reloads using 95gr Retumbo, Hornady brass and Federal GM215 primer. Today i shot a few very nice groups, two of which were well under 1/2 moa. I havent had as much luck with the 285gr Hornady bullet. Ive loaded several powder charge combinations with Retumbo. Some decent groups but not consistently, as the 250gr

Matthew Little

I want the savage sniper rifle .338 lapua with bipod and a scope for out to a mile, and do you have a scope that is day light and night light, like a starlight or would I be better withnight vision, let me know. I’m in this to buy. I live in columbus Ohio. I want it delivered, or I would appreciate it delivered. I have the money and more. Please let me know. I’m more than good for it. I will pay for your gas also. I would also like a few box magazine. Thank you for your time.
Matthew little

Mel Ewing

Contact us via email and we can discuss. The rifle will have to be sent to your dealer who would then go through the normal firearms transfer process according to federal, state and local laws.


The first thing folks must understand is this is a Lapua.. use Lapua brass and any extraction
problems will be solved .. As for how well mine shoots well I get .495″ groups all day long with 300 Smk . I did replace the butt ugly break with a OPS.INC break and all is well.

as always your results may differ….


Lapua brass. Always! Why would you want to shoot anything else anyways? I’ve actually shot other brass and never had a problem with extraction. After measuring it sounds like it was a manufacturing error. But again. This is made for Lapua brass. Despite attempts to get the sizing right. Other brands often times may not cut it. Also Lapua lasts the longest reloading I’ve found. I can usually get 8-9 reloads out of Lapua. I load 300 gr & 250 gr SMK’s. Mostly 300 though. They fly better at 1 mile. And I love shooting long range. This rifle’s harmonic vibrations are excellent! I wonder what kind of tests you guys do on your rifles to be honest. Just taking a rifle out and having a bunch of people shoot it isn’t always very conclusive. Also the Accu-trigger does suit tall people better with trigger pull. But that goes into operator error if you’re pulling the trigger incorrectly. Anyways. 91 gr of Ramshot Magnum. Excellent propellant! Remington 9 1/2 magnum primers. Also for anyone who reads this. It sounds like this was a brand new rifle they got. I’m guessing never shot before. Don’t forget every rifle should have a break in period. Like a new car engine. You should shoot at least 100 rounds through a new barrel like this rifle before it’s considered to have an efficient copper build up down the barrel. Also cleanings between every 5-7 rounds. There’s so much more to consider in a rifle review. I just don’t think it was taken into effect here. But what do I know. We don’t know all their processes as they didn’t state them if they did do them. (Were they prone or on a bench etc) So take this review with a grain of salt. As well as my comment. I have many rifles. Some that are well over $12k without including the scope etc. .338 lapua, .308 in variants like the ultra etc., .408 cheytac, etc. However out of all my long range rifles I like my 110 BA the best. It was on the bottom end of the cost range and I can shoot sub 1/4 moa all day long. 100-800 meters. Above 800+ depends on conditions but on good conditions I can hit 1. – 1 1/2 moa. This is an AMAZING rifle. No I do not work for Savage. This is the only Savage rifle I own. But I do love it. I’d recommend you check out some of the other reviews out there and youtube as well. I kind of thought snipercentral would have a better review process than this? I guess it is what it is.

Mel Ewing

We ran the rifle through the same tests that we run every other rifle. Conducted in controlled environment using 2 or 3 shooters (all qualified snipers) to perform accuracy tests first at 100 yards where wind has minimal impact on groupings, and then we will shoot at longer ranges to understand how the rifle operates in field conditions. The 100 yard tests are always ran from a bench with a bag up front and a sand sock at the rear, long range field tests are done from the prone from a bipod. We use several different types of ammo to try and get a good sampling of rifle capability as we know some rifles like some ammo better. We have been doing this a long time and always continue to refine our processes to provide a fair and unbiased opinion and give the rifle the best chance possible to impress us and succeed. The trigger issue continues to be a problem on Savage rifles that we test and use. Yes, its less of a problem for large hands, not everyone has large hands and not every military unit, law enforcement shooter or civilian enthusiast has Lapua brass either. Thats why we do these tests.

Ben Graham

I appreciate everyone’s input on the Lapua. I like the rifle very much but I have a question; what is an excellent rifle to snipe with and hunt with?

Mel Ewing

The options are endless as there are many excellent hunting and long range sniping rifles out there.

Jon Mundy

Stumbled across this article while looking for mags for mine, I got mine the first year they came out, then took me another year to find somebody to fix it. My lead was cut to short and would shove the bullet into the case when clambering a round. Pre fix groups ran from 1 to 1.5 inches for 5 shots @ 100 yards, post fix is 5/8 inch for 5 shots @ 100 yards(while sleep deprived).

Chris Gazes

currently shooting .308 in Rem 700 and M1A1 at 1,000 and less.
would like to get out a little further and think Lapua .338 is the way to go
Like what I read on Savage 110BA and seem that for the $ I should try if not, probably Barrett

jimmy james

Had the 110FCP for a short while. First off the rifle in that configuration is too light for a cartridge of this power. Secondly it shot way left as if there was something askew with the factory pic rail mounting or barrel. Thirdly, the best I could get the rifle to print at 100yds with Hornady facotry ammo (sorry I do not remember what bullet weight) was 3″. Fourthly, the rear mounting screw could easily be hand tightened to where the bolt would bind up. Also, just watched an episode of Pig Man and he was shooting the BA110 at night with Vortex glass and ATN thermal. All I can say is, “not too good”.

Bob K

I shoot my Savage 110FCP-HS Precision out to 1300yds (and beyond). I consistently hit (10 out of 11) a man-size steel with about 12″ groups (less than 1 moa) and 10-15mph crosswinds. At 100yds, my 3rd and 5rd groups at under ¼”. My Savage is finicky and likes Lapua brass, Berger 300 Hybrid bullets, Federal 215 primers, and 89.5gr of H1000. All bullets and powder are weighed the same, the brass trimmed the same, and annealed often. I seat the bullets to .003-.010″ off the lands (measuring the ogive). Out of hundreds of test loads, I found this to be the most accurate. I get the occasional stuck case due to slight over-pressure, so as recommended by Bryan Litz, I’m now testing by backing off to .015″, .030″, and .045″. I just converted my FCP-HS to a BA by installing the BA stock and a new McGowan SS match barrel. I will try to shoot it before it gets too cold. In addressing the trigger issue; I had issues with my Savage M12 F-Class 6.5×284, but never with the 110FCP. I’ll see if the BA stock causes me problems with cheek placement, etc. One commenter mentioned a loose screw touching the bolt. You have the wrong screws. The BA uses shorter screws than the FCP-HS. I had the same problem until I installed the proper length screws.


My 110 fcp hs shoots Norma 300 gr hpbt in the same hole. $69 per 20. Not sure if I can load them for less

Tom Foster

I purchased mine in 2012 and have tested lots of handloads , this rifle likes H-4831 and H-1000 only .. 250 gr Hornady hp over 90 grains h-4831 and fed. 215 will shoot 3/4 in groups at 200 … 300 gr smk over 89.6 grains of h-1000 and fed 215 will also shoot under 1 inch at 200

Steve Frazier

Waiting for the 110 BA .338 Lapua to come available in left hand action. any idea on production?

Randal Walker

I know this is an older post, but I am looking for some advice here. I bought the 110BA a while back, am reloading with Lapua Brass. I have several different load configuration’s I will try as several of my friends shoot this round. My question is, “With a brand new long range rifle and a brand new Nightforce BEAST scope, what, in your opinion, is the fastest way to get on paper. I have no intention of dabbling with 100 yard shots. I am looking to train intensely for a minimum of 600 meters. I know there are procedures some shooters go thru. Any advise?

Mel Ewing

Well, to get yourself on paper at 600 yards, you will need a baseline. I know you said you dont want to shoot 100 yards, but thats the easiest way to start. Get your 100 yard zero, then use some ballistic charts for your ammo to get you “close” as you go to your longer ranges. If you just tried to start zeroing at 600 yards, you would end up wasting a lot of ammo. The way we do it, is you mount the scope and then bore sight the barrel to the scope at 100 yards. Then shoot a round at 25 yards. Adjust the scope so the rounds strike about 2″ low at 25 yards. Then go to 100 and you should be on paper. Adjust your zero until its point of aim point of impact at 100 yards (hitting where you point). Slip your scope knobs to zero/zero if you want (at least do wind). And then use your ballistic chart or software to dial in adjustments at each range out to where you want to shoot. Should be close. If you dont have software, it might be wisest to increase in 100 yard increments so you don’t waste too much ammo by jumping a big distance. If you have software that you can type in altitude, temp, humidity, you can probably take bigger increments.

Roscoe Kowalyk

What the best yardage to zero in at savage 338 lapua mag. For elk gun is new have not shot it yet ? For Victoria B.C. Can.

Mel Ewing

This will depend a lot on the environment you will be hunting in. If it is heavily wooded and you do not expect to have many shots beyond 100 yards, then the zero should be short. But if you will be hunting in wide open terrain and you have the skills and experience to shoot at long range, then you can stretch that zero distance further. We like to set our scope to the range that we expect to shoot at during an encounter.


Thank you all for the information.
I don’t think it has changed my mind. .338 Lapua still my dream gun and I’m still leaning hard towards the. BA 110
What scope will be best? Mile range Vortex or Bersa looking forward to owning this someday. Not looking forward to ammo prices. But looking forward to learning to reload. Thank you again

Roscoe Kowalyk

I,m going to shoot my savage 338 lapua zero in @ 300 yrds. Vortex viper scope is my scope moa . Or mils 250 gr. Hornadys to turn the turret to shoot 600 or more I,m turning moa. Not mils

John Whyte

Will receive mine next week. Hope I’m set for the .338 power. I’m hoping the Brake is effective. Shoot a lot of .308 from a S&W MP10, shoot with a Lantac Dragon Brake. Shoots like a 5.56. My question is scopes, only have a Nikko Sterling 5-20x50mm, it has the pull to turn and push to lock. Very sturdy on Bolt action .308 no brake and .308 semi-auto with brake. Question is will it survive a .338? May be going out scope hunting. with 20MOA mount I will have 70 adjustment and 10 hold over if I’m saying it correctly.

Mel Ewing

Well, it should hold up. The 110BA has an effective break but it is still a good amount of recoil. It will all depend on the quality of the internal mechanisms on the scope.

Luke Weatherford

So, this gun isn’t for sissies, you gotta have MAN HANDS!!!


Love mine love shooting it except for one problem won’t inject cases after 10 rounds . Not reloads …


Love my 110BA with a 6x24x50 Vortex viper PST scope. After several months of sighting in my scope and experimenting with several different brands of ammunition, I found out that my 110BA likes 250 gr Lapua brand ammo. And I was able to put 5 rounds at 100 yards in center mass covering the size of a dime.


I just purchased a Savage 110BA 338LM on recommendation from a friend that has had the 110BA in 338LM for a couple of years and with his hand loads he regularly gets sub 1/4 moa groupings at 100y. I think he has a Jewell trigger in it also.

Bob K

I commented on this site back on Nov 2015, and now have a followup. I finally tested my converted Savage 110FCP-HS to 110BA with the McGowan barrel. At 600yds, my best 4-rd grouping was 1.75″ (⅓ moa), but consistently hit 2.5″ groups ( .4 moa) with 5-8mph crosswinds. At 100yds, my 3-rd groups were under ¼”. My Savage likes Lapua brass and has extraction problems with HSM brass. After doing extensive barrel harmonics testing (Ladder tests), my current loads: Berger 300 Hybrid bullets, Federal 215 primers, and 90.3gr of H1000. All bullets and powder are weighed the same, the brass trimmed the same, and annealed often. I seat the bullets to .003-.005″ off the lands (bullets varied .002″ at the ogive). Remember, this load only works for MY rifle. Caution-this load may not be suitable or even safe for yours. Commenting on those shooters (including myself) who have had extraction issues even with Lapua brass, I discovered that a hot barrel contributes to this dramatically. I had stuck brass at 84.0grs-89.5grs with continued shooting. Allowing the barrel to cool after 3-4 rds fired, I was able to load up to 93.0grs without extraction issues. Now, the only issue now is at the hotter loads, the magazine loosens, drops down slightly, and causes feeding problems. I addressed this with Savage and we think it might have to do with the combination of converting to the BA stock and the hotter loads. I made an adjustment to the mag release lip (on the mag) and will be heading out to the range soon to test it. Comments and feedback on this are welcomed.


Can anyone enlighten me on this accu trigger . Took my 110BA out to shoot and click!! nothing.
Came home watched you tube and wondering is it just me. Anyone else with just a click? Or is it me?:)

Mel Ewing

We have ran into occasions where a trigger finger may not properly displace the little “blade” all the way so that you will only get a “click” but the firing pin does not drop. Head to the range and make sure your trigger finger is placed all the way on that trigger and making a nice “J” shape so that it fully displaces that blade when pulling the trigger. See if that is the issue or not.


I was wondering what rail you are using to mount your bipod? I am having a hard time finding a rail to mount my Accu-Tac SR-5 bipod on my 110BA.


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