• Manufacturer: Tikka
  • Model: T3 Tactical
  • Caliber: .223 Rem
    .308 Win (7.62x51mm NATO)
    300 Win Mag
  • Barrel: Heavy, cold Hammer Forged - threaded
  • Barrel Length: 20" (508mm)
    24" (610mm) -test rifle was 24"
  • Twist: 223 - 1:8" RH
    300 WM & 308 Win - 1:11" RH
  • Magazine: 4-6 rounds (depending on cartridge)
  • Trigger: Single stage
  • Stock: Synthetic, adjustable cheekpiece and length of pull
  • Metal Finish: Teflon bolt, parkerized barreled action
  • Weight: 8.0 lbs (3.6 kg) - 20"
    8.14 lbs (3.7 kg) - 24"
  • Overall Length: 40.16" (1020mm) - 20"
    43.75" (1110mm) - 24"

Tikka is a Finnish company that has been making rifles for a long time. Their recent T3 offering has made quite a stir in the hunting rifle market, as these rifles are built right along side the much more expensive Sako rifles, are extremely smooth functioning and come from the factory with a 1 MOA guarantee. Not bad for a rifle that costs less than your average Remington 700 BDL. Tikka also makes a Varmint rifle that is available in a number of calibers not available in most varmint rifles, though the USA importer, Beretta USA, only imports the .223, .22-250 and 308 into the USA. Then there is the Tactical rifle which we are reviewing here. This rifle is not just a varmint rifle with a matte blue finish, but is a whole new offering, and as such, costs about twice as much as their varmint rifle and has some “real” tactical features. Because their hunting rifles carry a 1 MOA accuracy guarantee, I was hopeful that their heavy barrel tactical rifle would be able to do considerably better than that.


A 20″ and 24″ barrel is available on the T3 tactical, we ordered one with a 24″ barrel. The T3 Tactical has a fully adjustable stock including an adjustable cheek-piece that adjusts up and down after loosening the hand knob on the side of the butt stock, and then raising or lowering the cheek-piece to the desired position and then tightening the knob back up. The length of pull is adjusted by adding or removing spacers. The pistol grip area has a slight palm swell that helps fill the palm. The palm swell is not as thick as the palm swell on the HS stocks found on the remington 700P, which may or may not fit your hand better. I would like to see a bit more vertical profile to the pistol grip though.


The forearm area of the stock is a semi-wide beavertail style with a slight slant to it. This provides a fairly solid forward rest area that can be slid forward or back along the rest to raise or lower the point of aim. Honestly I seldom use that feature on any rifle, as a squeeze of the sandsock is easier and more logical in shooting situations. The material that the stock is made out of is a synthetic of some flavor that is great in all weather conditions, but the texture is a bit too smooth for my liking. With face paint and sweat, one may have some issue with your cheek sliding on the cheek-piece a bit, though with a clean and dry cheek, it was no problem. There is texturing on the pistol grip and forearm area that does offer some all weather griping in those areas, but overall, it is not as nice as a HS stock. All the desired features you want are on the stock, but I don’t like the layout as much as a HS or McMillan stock, but it does get the job done.


One feature I do really like on the stock is all the positions for the sling studs. The studs thread into metal threaded mount potins in the stock and there are various positions all around the stock. The traditional positions under the forearm and butt stock, as well as positions on both sides of the forarms and butt stocks. This provides a lot of flexibility on how to arrange your sling & bipods. You simply need to remove the allen screw that is there as a plug, and screw in the swivel stud. Here is a picture of the bipod mounted on the forward stud as well as a sling swivel on the side.


The action is a traditional T3 action, which is enclosed all the way around except for the ejection port. The action is noted for being very smooth, and I concur. The action is VERY smooth and we had no failures of any sort when testing the rifle. The bolt handle is normal size with a tapered shape. The safety is on the side of the action and easy to reach and operate with the thumb. The rifle uses a detachable single stack magazine that is synthetic (plastic). Plastic things on a rifle make us a little nervous, but it held up fine in our tests. It does hold five rounds of 308, and most importantly it functioned perfectly. In fact, the action fed extremely smooth from the magazine, which impressed me. The action also fed fine with hand fed single loadings not using the magazine. One thing I did note is that you MUST insure the magazine is locked in 100%. A couple of times, until I figured this out, the front of the magazine did not latch, and the first round fed fine, then upon firing the magazine would drop from the rifle. I learned that you simply must insure that the magazine “snaps” into place, this is most easily accomplished by applying pressure toward the front of the magazine when placing it in the rifle.


The rifle comes with a nice picatinny rail already mounted to the rifle. You can remove it and use the standard Tikka groves and tikka specific rings, but I think that would be unwise. The trigger is wide with groves in it, much like a remington and was set from the factory at 3 lbs. In fact, the trigger was a very nice treat compared with 95% of the triggers that come on factory rifles. There was no take-up, and the break was nice and crisp. The bolt release is located on the left side of the action and functions as one would expect.


The barrel on the rifle is a hammer forged medium weight barrel. It has a 1:11″ twist which is odd for a factory rifle, but ideal for 175gr ammo. The overall rifle package seems to be thought out well in many of these little ways. The muzzle comes from the factory threaded for a suppressor or muzzle brake (available for sale separately, and not evaluated in this review). This is another nice tactical touch for a factory rifle. One thing that is odd that you will not see on many rifles is that near the muzzle, starting maybe 6-7″ from the muzzle, the barrel actually gets thicker. If you look closely in some of the pictures of the rifle, you will see it. I can only assume this was done to support the weight of a suppressor. Though I may be wrong! Honestly, I don’t know if this is good or bad in terms of muzzle whip or harmonics, though I figure Tikka would know best how it affects accuracy.

For the shooting evaluation of the rifle, we mounted a Mueller 3-10x44mm TacII scope with a set of Warne Tactical rings on top of the factory provided rail. Now, I don’t know if this is typical, or if we were extremely lucky, but I am not kidding when I say we mounted everything up, then bore sighted and everything looked good as is and I made NO adjustments to the scope. So, with the scope at factory zero (zero-zero on the knobs) we fired the first group. It was merely .75″ to the left of point of aim at 100 yards with federal gold medal match 168gr ammo. I have NEVER seen a rifle that close to zero without touching a single dial on the scope after mounting. I call that precision (or extremely lucky). So, with three clicks of right on the scope, we were zeroed.


The rifle recoils fairly briskly for a tactical rifle because of its lighter weight and thinner recoil pad. But it was still mild compared to light hunting rifles, and it is only a .308. Extraction is VERY positive offering no doubts that if possible, extraction will happen. Like I have mentioned earlier, the operation was very smooth through out the tests and this really showed in the rapid fire tests. I will say that in terms of ultimate accuracy, I was hoping for .5 MOA, but I never did achieve that. I was close on numerous occasions, but never broke that mark. But I will say that this rifle was extremely consistent. It pretty much shot everything I fed it at less than 1 MOA. It didn’t seem to care what ammo I fed it. Ultimately federal GMM shot the best with an average of .623″ and a best group of .55″. I also fired ABT 175gr and HSM 178 AMAX that also averaged below 1″. The ABT was about .75″ across the board and the HSM about .8″. With a higher magnification scope and breaking in the rifle a bit more, I’m sure those groups would have came down and probably would have broken the .5″ barrier, but it did not happen with this scope during these evaluations. Performance was very good, though not excellent.


In conclusion: This rifle is a nicely thought out tactical rifle from Tikka. The cost puts it in with the FN SPR rifles (lower end ones) and the Steyr SSG’s, and it competes okay there. The performance is very smooth though the stock could use a new material and some tweaking to its shape (possibly more traditional in design?). The accuracy is good and will probably get a bit better over time, and because of its consistency it would serve very well in a tactical role. The ability to mount the muzzlebrake (about $200) or a suppressor is nice to have from a factory rifle. A new stock would really make it a gem.


Test rifle kindly provided by Greg Smith




Mel Ewing

The rifle reviewed here is a 308. They also chamber it in 223, which has been used for law enforcement sniping as well as DMR and SPR applications.

Mel Ewing

There is no bedding, stock is mounted via the traditional T3 action screws


Got one a few years back,great gun shoots 600 yds easy killed a lot of coyotes with it 300mag with muzzle brake,4.5×16 scope,178gr handloads,muzzle brake lets you to see your shot at long distance. Recoil not bad with out muzzle brake put 50 rounds through it a the range no ill affects on me. Mine came with open sights too. Best long range rife I have 1000yd rifle in the future.

Mel Ewing

The Tikka’s are a good rifle, and very capable when equipped with the heavy barrels (such as the tactical and varmint version)

Scott Rutledge

Curious how this would shoot and review in .260 Rem. Is there any way that we can get access to or purchase this caliber in Tikka T3 (I don’t believe Beretta imports any of the Tikkas in .260 Rem, I’m not sure why, but I really want one…).

Thanks in advance,

Mel Ewing

Scott, you are correct, Beretta does not import the T3 tactical or varmint in 260. Tikka chambers these rifles in many different and great calibers, but beretta doesn’t think they would be popular in the USA. But, they do import the T3 CTR in .260 and we are planning to bring that rifle in and do a review. Hopefully in about 2 months.

Josh W

I own a Savage 10TR LEO 308 in 24in barrel config. It had major issues with the barrel and had to be sent back for warranty repair. Needless to say, I know its a good gun. Should i trade up to this rifle or just keep the Savage when it comes back from warranty?

Mel Ewing

That is a difficult question. The T3’s are nice rifles and we like them, but I would suggest handling one to see if you like the stock.

Josh W

Right on, I will try. I know that my Savage TR10 LEO is very cabled of sub MOA. Just mine was screwed from factory with a bad barrel. Bore or whole as warranty claims was not drilled properly. So I will try my gun again but this gun caught my attention.

David Beverley

mint reading i fancy 308 tikka very much as well as a ftr308 by savage


What would you recommend for an aftermarket chassis for T3 in 300 win mag? I am very much liking KRG’s Whiskey-3 chassis, but it won’t fit Tikka long caliber rifles. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Mel Ewing

It is my understanding that there is only one action length for Tikka T3s so it should work. Though the magazines might be an issue. Accuracy Internation has announced a version of their AT chassis for the T3, but they are not available yet and it may be a while before they are. MDT is a possibility. If you are looking for standard stocks, B&C, McMillan and Manners are all good options.

Mel Ewing

Hum… very good question. I like the Tikka and I really liked the 24″ barrel version of the T3 Tactical. But the Remmy 700P stock is a better proposition, though non adjustable. The Tikka has a DBM vs standard 700P which does not, though the Tikka mags are plastic. Both actions are really smooth, the T3 out of the box, the remmy okay out of the box and then works in to be ultra smooth. Accuracy is about the same between the two. Its a hard choice, but the extra money for the T3 might turn the tide in favor of the 700P.


That did not make it any easier for me haha. I currently have an FNH SPR and love it. My best group so far I can cover it with a dime at 100 yards. I am itching to get another rifle and looking at all the options. I really wouldn’t mind a 700P and try to have Tac Ops do a job on it but I know they are expensive and are pretty backed up. Would you get a Tikka and do a B&C stock for it or just get a 700P ? Thanks

Mel Ewing

I really like the FN SPR’s, so good choice there. We are preparing to offer a Tikka version of our rifle packages because we really like the tikka, but included is a new aluminum floorplate to replace the plastic one as well as aluminum bolt shrouds to replace the plastic. If you go the Tikka Route, I’d probably plan on those two upgrades as well. The B&C M40 stock is very nice for the Tikka. we just finished our prototype using this stock and we are very pleased with how the whole arrangement turned out. The 700Ps are still nice, but if you are looking for something different, then yeah, the Tikka with those changes is a good option.

Bo Andersen

Let me chip-in here!

I have had a Rem.700 for some years now and has been really impressed with it’s performance over the years considering how much abuse it has taken.

However, 5 years ago I bought a T3-Tac in 223 which by far outshot anything that I had in my arsenal, so my choice was very easy when I got another T3-Tac offered in 300 WinMag, bye bye 700 and “hello love of my life” We have been married over a year now and she’s not going anywhere soon.

For critters, I choose my 223 and for boar it’ll be the 300.

My biggest problem actually is that they both are threaded 18×1 so my suppressor for the 223 also fits the threads on the 300 and vise versa, one thing which really could ruin your day if it happens, but that problem was solved by clearly marking the suppressors with their respective calibers.

So bach to the issue, I would go for the T3 any day of the week


I’m curious as to what you guys think about the new T3X Tactical, been looking into it and have seen nothing but good.

Mel Ewing

We like the updates and its still the same T3 at heart, so we are optimistic about it. Have not tried one first hand yet.

Jim McCune

Thanks Mel,
I just started the break in of a CTR .308 and in FL weather got a .58 C to C using H. AMAX factory load today. For the price, this thing is nice.


Someone said that there is no bedding but the stock is different form the earlier model. In fact when I look at mine I don’t know where to put some bedding glass because the action sit properly in some slots that have been made to receive those little bumps where the screws go in. In fact when we do some bedding in a standard tikka stock or synthetic stock those bumps sit in a rectangular shape hole but not on my T3X Tactical. As I said I don’t know where I would put bedding. The only mod I did now on the rifle is sanding the inside of the stock at from about 3-4″ from the action because the barrel was not really Free floating and now it is.

Craig Russell

Question? If shooting with stock chassis in the beginning, what type/brand muzzle device would be recommended for the Tikka’s specific center of gravity? I’m just curious about staying on target and being able to see my shot splash at lower yardage say 100 to 600 yards ?

Thank you


To be able to watch impact at short ranges you will need to reduce the recoil and improve the recoil absorption by having good body position with a natural point of aim that brings the rifle back on target. You can reduce recoil with a muzzlebrake, a heavier weapon system or lower recoiling round.


The original is perfect.
I suggest you to change the polymer chassis asap. I really like my chassis: Evolution HD by XLR…it gave amazing results.


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